How do you think the coating is thin? Print with the same amount of ink, if the density of the dark part is the same, and the darker color in the middle is the paper with thin coating or large dot spread. After increasing the amount of ink, the paper with low density in the dark part must be paper with serious ink dot spread or thin coating.
Because the coating is completely transparent, the ink can form a larger concentration, and the incident light is reflected after reaching the bottom layer. After two filterings, the color saturation is very high. And because the dot spread is small, it can be formed by pure additive color to the greatest extent, so the saturation of high brightness red, green, and blue is very high.
The "colloid" coating is also divided into soft and hard. The "hard" coating feels like a plexiglass surface, absorbs ink relatively slowly, and is relatively picky about the type of ink. The ink's solvent is not suitable and cannot be absorbed. But its ink droplet spread is small, and the formed ink layer is thick, which can print the best photos. It does not absorb EPSON original inks, Canon original inks and original HP inks of some HP printers.
The "soft" coating feels astringent, like touching the surface of a balloon. The ink absorption speed is very fast, almost any ink can absorb. However, the color of the same ink on different papers varies greatly. The color of a paper is normal on EPSON printers, but blue on HP printers. We estimate that the diffusivity of inks with different compositions is different. The reason for the bluish color may be that the blue ink spreads less, while the other color inks spread seriously. The dot spread of this type of paper is usually larger. The softer the paper, the better the ink adaptability and the more serious the paper spread. The sharpness and color saturation of the picture are also worse. I suspect that this type of paper creates many tiny pores in the "glue" to absorb ink quickly. The larger the proportion of pores, the better the ink absorption, and it feels like foamed plastic (or foamed “glueâ€). However, the micropores cause the ink dots to spread greatly, and the transparency of the coating decreases. Therefore, the printing effect of "soft" paper is close to that of coated paper, which is not beautiful enough.
The transparent coated paper is only returned when the light hits the bottom white reflective layer. The incident light is fully filtered by the dye layer, so the color saturation is the highest; in the translucent or opaque coating, the light is halfway It is turned back one after another without being fully filtered by the dye, so the saturation, maximum density and dark level are not as good as the transparent coating.
The strange thing is that "soft" paper usually has a certain water resistance. It is possible that it absorbs ink mainly through its micropores, rather than "glue", so its "glue" can be insoluble in water, so there is Waterproof. And its surface tension can be specially modulated so that it can only be infiltrated by specific ink, and ordinary ink reaches it like it falls on a lotus leaf, and cannot enter these micropores to bring the ink out.
If soft paper does have this structure, its fade resistance is not very good. The hard paper will not fade in the room for 3-5 years without the film. How about soft paper? I do n’t use much, how about your experience?
Since "hard adhesive paper" may absorb ink into its own molecular structure, temperature and humidity have a great influence on the speed at which it absorbs ink. When the room temperature is lower than 20 degrees and the humidity is very low, there will be many large particles of ink aggregation in the dark part because the ink cannot be absorbed in situ. When the room temperature exceeds 30 degrees and the humidity exceeds 80%, the photos will turn yellow again. The reason for this is still unknown. The most suitable temperature and humidity for using "hard adhesive paper" should be a temperature of 25 degrees and a relative humidity of 50% -80%. The environmental requirements of paper that absorbs ink with micropores are usually much lower.
The paper used to make the light box sheet is usually higher. Because the light box film requires a maximum density of 3.0 to look good. The incident light is filtered only once on the ink layer, and the density and color saturation appear lower. The transmission sheets made by inexperienced people and those who use inferior light box paper are often gray, probably due to insufficient ink.
Printing translucent sheets usually requires twice the amount of ink when printing reflective sheets. This is not only a requirement for software, but also a higher requirement for printing paper. There are two types of paper for printing transmissive sheets: transparent and translucent. The transparent film can only be used for transmission, such as used on a projector, so it is used less, and few people work on the transparent film. Its ink absorption is not very good, and the commercially available film is difficult to absorb twice the ink the amount.
Most printed translucent sheets use transflective backspray sheets, which can be used for both transmissive viewing and reflective viewing. As a light box, no diffuser is needed, so it is widely used. The main quality indicators of the back jet are ink permeability and ink absorption.
A good backspray is consistent with ink transmission of all colors. But we see that most of the back jets of poor quality always have a few colors of ink penetrating poorly, resulting in inaccurate colors when the backlight is not turned on. Most cheap backjets have poor ink absorption performance, which means that when printing with twice the ink volume, the maximum density does not increase correspondingly, but the contrast and sharpness of the picture are greatly reduced. In the concept of ordinary people, back jets are also divided into two types: powdery and colloidal. We believe that this should also be the difference between using small holes to absorb ink and using structures to absorb ink. Gum paper has a great selectivity for ink, but good gum paper is very absorbent and can reach a maximum density of more than 3.0. Powdered paper has medium ink absorption, and usually does not reach a density of 3.0, but it can achieve a density of 2.3. But powdery paper generally has good ink permeability, while cheap gummed paper has poor ink permeability.
What are the main causes of discoloration?
The most worrying thing about printing photos with a printer is fading. According to our observation, the main cause of discoloration is light-heat plus air. Among them, air plays the most important role. Apart from oxygen in the air, what has the greatest influence on the color is unknown.
Without the cover film, the photos printed on "adhesive paper" will not fade in the room for 3-5 years. Coated paper and rice paper, which are porous materials with very large air-contact surface, will have a severely discolored image in 1 year. Photographs of "hard adhesive paper" covered with film only faded slightly on the sunny side of the room for half a year, but there was no visible fade in the year or even two years when it was not exposed to sunlight. But if the paper base is not plastic coated but breathable, the shelf life is at least reduced by half.
Take the printed photos covered with the film and expose them directly to the sun, and the storage period will be reduced by half. We once posted the printed pictures on the car in the summer, and after running outside for a month, the color faded. This shows that the hot iron shell of the car is very damaging to the color. But if you put the photo in the UV lamp and ordinary incandescent lamp to expose, there is no obvious difference in the speed of their fading. Therefore, the most important thing for long-term preservation of photos is: 1. Let the dye cut off the air; 2. Rare high-temperature light.
Pigment ink may be more durable because of its larger particles and less internal oxidation. Some mineral pigments are inherently stable, such as vermilion, but it cannot be used as an ink for printing.
The relationship between granularity and printing paper
The same printer, even when using alternative inks, has very little change in particle size. A related article also introduced the effect of software on granularity. So does paper affect particle size? there must be.
Generally speaking, paper particles with large ink dot spread are relatively large, and the principle is not difficult to imagine. But in many cases the opposite is true. For example, someone brought us a sample of paper, and we found that its particle size was very small after printing. I was trying to make a lot of customizations to him, but the sharpness of the photos has caused us doubts. After careful inspection with a 50x microscope, it was found that the spread of ink dots on this kind of paper is extremely serious, and the color of the ink dots has been thinned (like the "flat particles" on the film), so it looks fine. This phenomenon is more common in opaque or translucent coatings, and the paper particles tend to be finer as the ink dots spread more severely. Therefore, when we observe the granularity of a paper, we must also observe whether its sharpness, color saturation, maximum density, and dark level are reduced. This is a more comprehensive observation and selection. This observation should be extended to the printing system. Because some printer systems allow you to choose only certain types of paper.
Is it possible for the printing software to change the printer's adaptability to paper?
But we found that the software's improvement of the printer's adaptability to paper is relatively limited. When you have reduced the printing speed to a relatively low level, there are still a lot of unevenly absorbed ink beads in the dark part, and then use the software to change the ink dot distribution. It's useless. Even reducing the speed by 50% at this time has no decisive significance. So basically don't believe that using XYZ software can improve the propaganda of paper adaptability.
The role of coating
Many people are reluctant to accept the process of laminating photos. Always emphasize how traditional photos are. But can traditional photos without a film be touched? Can it last? According to our observation, the preservation period of the traditional photo without lamination is only half of that of the printed film with lamination.
The first function of the film is waterproof, which is not necessarily required for traditional photos. The second function is to prevent fading, which is required for both traditional and printed photos. There is also an important role of lamination. Many people may not find it, because they use all the cheap film.
Applying a light film with a low refractive index to the photo can greatly reduce the reflection of the photo and increase the permeability. It is similar to the coating of the lens. I don't believe you try it.
However, laminating is too much trouble, and dust will get into it accidentally. If anyone can invent a simple and high-quality laminating process, that is, laminating the film while printing, it will definitely be very popular. We still look forward to quietly!
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